90km down the track from Charleville we pull into Wyandra, a very small town with a pub and a corner store attached to a small caravan park with fees of $20 per night. We opt to enter the pub and was greeted by patrons singing the praises of the $11 lamb roast which we promptly ordered for lunch. These lovely people were staying at the free camp ground two streets away and of course after lunch we headed there to set up camp. There is a great fire here continually burning, the publican replenishes a massive pile of old fence posts to keep it stoked up, a dump point is nearby, a solar shower if you're happy with tepid water, a good sized clothes line and the best TV reception so far.
Parked almost in the middle of the camp area, we're exposed to the wind in all directions, we were parked there for a couple days until Nicki decided she wanted to head straight for home. By her few comments I knew that she didn't think this trip had turned out as she thought, we have very different ideas about travelling in the outback. I felt the pressure of making all the decisions and that didn't sit well with me either, anyway I still have around 6 weeks of play time so I've stayed on to make the best of my stay in outback Queensland. Loving it so much.
I've set up a new spot around the other side that's protected from the wind and in a position to catch all the beautiful sunsets from my motor home. I was out trying for a milky way shot one night when I caught this one, the campers had just thrown another log on the fire at about 9.30pm. The stars are brilliant right now but won't be long before the moon fades them.
A pretty morning sun rise and then Anne arrives and parks kind of in the same area, a lone traveler like me we hit it off really well from the start. We had some things in common.
Anne learnt to Crochet not too long ago, started with a square and now calls it her tarpaulin. I figure she just doesn't know how to end it.
In her working life she was employed by the Central Coast Labour Party (wont hold that against her) and became redundant when the money scandal axed politicians.
We did a long walk to find the Warrigo River and wow! what a fabulous spot to camp if only the ground was a little dryer and so close to the river bank, beautiful gum trees and plenty of bird life.
We walked to the museum one day and the next walked to the pub for dinner and beer (one Hahn premium light for me)
A lovely couple, Graham and Marg (nick name Butter) stopped for a few days before heading to Yowah via Cunnamulla and Eulo after hearing from another couple that there are little huts there like the ones on the beach in Victoria, the difference being they have a Artesian bath in each and are without a roof.
Imagine soaking in a hot tub and looking at the stars at the same time in the middle of nowhere. I seriously considered following them but checked the weather first, with the temp being lower than 18deg over the next week, I promptly declined.
Arriving at Charleville mid morning Nicki speaks to the repair man, arranging for a meeting at about 5pm at the Cobb and Co caravan park on the outskirts of town for the replacement part to the door to be installed. Later, visited the Information Centre/ Cosmos Observatory to book in for the "Aboriginal Night Sky Stories" at 6pm. From there we find the Cobb & Co caravan park and book in for one night, paying $22 each for a non powered site...a bit rich I thought....but is close to the home of the repairman. I ordered a taxi for a return trip from the night sky stories, figuring it would be nice to be a passenger for a change. And there you go again...things just don't work out how you think sometimes.
Another part of Nick's door falls off, bugger! and the repairman was running a little late, I panicked and cancelled the taxi, it turned out we would have had minutes to spare of its arrival.
The door handle all fixed and Nicki happy, I drove the van out to the Observatory for the hour of night sky stories, leaving poor Harry alone in Nicki's van, not really, he was very happy to wait in a warm bed. Ruby got to come with us for the ride.
Needing the focus on the dark sky's and not the stars, looking from the Coal Sack just below the southern cross, that really dark spot is the head of a dream time Warrior and following the dark to the right is his shoulders/arms and the Coal Sack is also the head of the emu with the dark areas flowing to the left of the cross is its body and legs. When the legs disappear at a certain time of year, the male emu is then sitting on eggs and is the time to collect only 2 eggs from a possible 6.
At the information Centre our inquiries were made regarding the road through Quilpi and Cunnamulla to the Dig Tree as these are the two ways to arrive at this destination from Charleville. This being the 'Natural Sciences Loop' covering towns like Eromanga, Noccundra, Thargomindah, and Eulo, would be an interesting trip no matter which way we went.
Luck would have it that there was a big burly police officer with brass on his shoulders visiting the centre, he told us the road had been closed near Eulo about 60ks west of Cunnamulla due to run off and flooding of the Paroo river and Yowah Creek. He also said moving off any of the roads to give way to the trucks would be dangerously muddy. Mmm...I feel a trip change coming on here and have to admit I wasn't happy, I tried really hard to suck it in, though I felt like spitting chips!! Bugger...
The next morning we halted for cuppa and cake for morning tea in the main street of Charleville after Nicki had another problem, the swap and go this time, the new bottle was larger than the last and the holding strap wouldn't fit around to secure it. I think Nicki felt a bit over it and I also gave in to the Universe telling us to turn around and go south on our return journey home. A quick discussion was had and we were out of town travelling toward Cunnamulla.
Luckily for me a hair dresser/barber got his caravan bogged one day, of course there were plenty of helpers and instruction floating about. He was freed in no time and was about to be on his way when a powered site became available so he opted to stay over night, especially when there were 4 people wanting a quick hair cut. At $10 a head I lined up for a desperately needed trim and he didn't do a bad job either, better than most hair dressers charging $30.
It's funny that people are remembering us on our travels. Standing on a Surate corner with the two dogs on lead a caravan comes around the corner and honking his horn and calls out "we've come across you two down south before". Later on...spying a choofer with a chimney, and saying to the owners, that it was really great, the owner says "you should recognize this one because you have a photo of it from Surate camping ground. Bugger! I felt a little embarrassed not remembering these people....well! I did only speak to them for a few minutes and unfortunately my face/people recognition has never been great. Another woman says "I know you, probably met you at a CMCA rally" Not sure about this one, I've been to one rally that was held at Nelson Bay last year and only walked around checking out the vans.
Wash day today...
Nicki's door handle has arrived in Charleville so we'll pack up tonight, ready to leave at a leisurely pace tomorrow morning. We have been here at Morven for about 7 days.
There is so much road kill out here, Roo's, large pigs, goats and emu's. Following the train track and further along there is plenty of water pooled on both sides of the road and spread across the paddocks too, the bush is greening up quickly.
Heading west into Roma, we come across 'Bakearoma' the best bread/cake/eatery on the corner of Arthur and McDowall street where we settle in for a pie and cuppa lunch. I think the whole darned busy store is filled with travelers, maps out on tables and conversation's about what to see in the town. We share a table with a couple travelling in the opposite direction to us and have a wonderful discussion.
The streets of Roma are lined with massive Bottle trees, an unusual sight for me.
Woolworths was our next stop to top up our larders and a chemist for Nicki then asked at Mitre 10 for a cheap fold up chair and they have them for $11. The idea is that Harry might like to sit in a chair instead of trying to fit himself on Nicki's lap. Harry was at home in his new chair and close enough for pats from an out stretched hand from Nicki. I bought one for Ruby as well.
Still on the Warrego Hwy our next stop is Mitchell, continuing on for another 3kls passing the town to the camp at the Neil Turner Weir, a great expanse of camps spread along the waters edge.
There is tap water and toilets situated near the middle of the camp area. If it wasn't grey days we could have stayed there for a few days no problem at all.
Since we left home we haven't set up the solar panels at all but, I'm thinking we are getting closer to the days that power won't be as freely available for a cheap fee therefore we'll be using solar more regularly.
The cloud bank hanging over this state is a bugger as it is impacting on the decisions we make regarding our direction to the Dig Tree, figuring we won't be near the area for at least another week I'm hoping we get clear sky's and dry mud.
We're in the outback now....open expanses....Nicki in the rear view mirror.
Waking up Friday morning...not to early! I had the feeling that we should move out as soon as possible, aiming to arrive at Morven for a $5 a night camp only 90kl away, I've been told to get there early if we want a powered site. We arrived here at about 10.30 and thinking that only one powered site was free we busied ourselves trying to figure out how to share the one power point. Nicki was lucky enough to find another power spot at the other end of camp after a quick walk around, we are a distance away from each other but that's ok.
Saturday night, Nicki's door handle to the motor home broke off and with torches in hand, I tried to open the door with the broken off part and had success after a bit of fiddling. This meant that she could open the door from the inside but not from the outside, so I advised her to keep something in the door jam to keep the door open while she was outside.
Hamburg Creek, originally known as Saddlers Waterhole, is where the early settler Captian T J Sadleir and his wife camped and is the first site of Morven town, later becoming a rest stop beside the creek for Cobb & Co. The area is flood prone so I imagine that's the reason the town is now further away.
The cattle duffer (thief) Harry Redford and two friends stole 600-1000 cattle in the1800's from Queensland and drove them to Adelaide through country that defeated Burke and Wills. The cattle arrived in prime condition.
Harry's trial in 1873 found him 'not guilty' of the crime.
Rained during the night and after lunch Sunday so settled in with the footy, go the Dogs!
Bugger that! they lost....
Monday morning Nicki drove into Charleville to see about her door latch. Returning around lunch time with the news that the guy she called, could fix it, we just have to wait for the part to arrive at his work shop which could take a few days so....we are still here at Morven. Luckily we can stay 7 days, but just on the quiet...I think a few caravan's have been here way over the designated time.
When Nicki was away she lost her parking spot but is now parked nearer to me while she waits for someone to leave to plug into power, a lovely fellow nearby allowed her to double up and use his power socket.
There's panic every morning! when one camper disconnects the power and moves off, another will move into the spot or race over with power lead in hand to connect up before anyone else beats them to it. A motor home larger than mine parked so close to me I could shake hands with him through the side window of my van even though there is no other vans on that side and plenty of room to spread out. Jumping out of bed I said to him "hey hang on! you are blocking my sun" meaning he is to close to my space, he took it to be a joke. Some rude people just don't realise there is such a thing as camping etiquette like, not parking on top of another, it's not the same as a caravan park, all squeezed in like sardines?
Tuesday sunny followed by storms in the evening and I've finally caught up with my blog.
These back roads are great, the passing scenery changes constantly, I had a mob of kangaroos bounding by on my right so I broke into song, 6 white boomers, snow white boomers, racing santa clause through the blazing sun.......then I realise the crash cam camera is recording sound secretly so I laughingly shut myself up. I love being our here, not to much traffic, of course there are big trucks but just keep an eye out for them and move over enough for them not to have to hit the dirt and have stones thrown up when they pass.
I keep Nicki in view in the rear view mirror and far enough behind me that there is plenty of room between us to give motorists space and not have them over take her then find they have to overtake again to quickly. I like at least 600 mtrs or even more between our motor homes.
So its Wednesday and we're in Sarat, we fill the tanks for $1.34 per ltr, the cheapest price so far on this trip.
Surat is Cobb & Co town, the last horse drawn coach left here in 1924 with the last trip being between Surat and Yuleba at a distance of 75kl. At the hight of Cobb& Co they were running 3000 horses at a total of around 10,000 miles a week.
Mmmm! it's bit unusual for us to see a horse and rider on the town footpath while we have a cuppa and cake at the local store. We were considering our camp spot and decided on 'The Fishing and Restocking Club Park' just over the Balonne river, a gold coin donation and a fairly large level area with a clean loo's and water.
I find it easy to strike up a conversation with fellow campers while wandering around in the late afternoon when they are setting up or have their fires going. I take my camera with me and I tell them I am gathering many photos of choofers', it's a conversation starter if nothing else. I often get comical prompts like "Na! ya can't caus I have a patent on this one" or "it'll cost ya" I'm always amazed at the variety/design of the ingeniously wielded pieces for different types of cooking. This one is kinda special.
Before leaving camp I was directed by "Na! its patented" to a spot about 1/2 kl out of town where I would find plenty of timber that was left behind after the wood mill closed down. There were dozens of large white bags left on both sides of the dirt track. Loading up as much as I thought was ok for the rear carry box and Nicki also collected some wood for the spare space she had.
We have decided that we will be as far north as we want to go when we pass through Roma and Charleville and have made our final south westerly destination as "The Burke and Wills Did Tree" Yey!! I'm a happy vegemite.
Turned east from Talwood before turning north again at Bungunya, passing thru Westmar on this very straight long road to Meandarra (me an darra) the town named after a man and his dog. We considered staying overnight here with power and water @ $10 for the first 2 nights and then the next 2 nights free, good value if needing time off the road but we continued on, now heading west to Glenmorgan where we pulled over to enjoy the afternoon beside the gum trees and the old railway station.
The camp area is beside the railway track that was/is 'end of line' and also directly across the road from the general store. I seen they sold some camp items in the store, I rattled around in there for a bit and found 2 really large tent pegs $6 each, just what I need to make a grid atop the choofer. It will balance the kettle and frypan nicely but will have to wait till I'm home to visit the Mens Shed for help drilling 4 holes.
Under the shade of the picnic area members of council gathered to have their local meeting, I couldn't help but quietly listen in to their discussion about Anzac Day. The donation box is beside the gas bbq's and power switches.
This is a quiet, enjoyable spot with the weather being nice and warm during the day. There is fire drum and timber supplied for the travellers. A couple from Tasmania camped nearby and cranked up the fire so, of course we were there to soak up the heat as the cool night set in, What a way to end the day, treated to a fabulous sunset with good company to boot.
We didn't have time to swim in the Artesian pools, we were just to busy washing and drying clothes as the plan was to leave before lunch. The fee for the washing machine was $5 and the dryer $3 all up with our nights stay was $26, the most we've spent so far.
Saying goodbye to Boomi with a cupboard full of clean dry winter clothes, we are back on the road that takes us across the border at the Macintyre River. Locals tell me this river is the Barwon, the bridge sign says otherwise so think they are splitting hairs. Shortly after crossing the bridge the road narrows to a single land road .....we are now in Queensland.
Making our way to Talwood Sports ground on Saturday, only 36kl away with power, water, hot showers and toilets for a donation that's to be left at the general store. Stayed 3 nights and left a fare bit of money in town. Firstly, 2 women travellers camped near us offered to sell me their motor home truck solar window covers as they have no use for them since buying a caravan. I offered $100 knowing that they are worth near $400 on ebay, they accepted my offer and I am very pleased with the purchase. The temperature difference is amazing in the cabin and Ruby has taken up residence there in the drivers seat, that gets her out from under my feet in the small space of the motor home.
Tea and Scones in the post office, goodies bought at the food store and a stroll down the street we found a store filled with nuts, bolts and possibly anything you can think of. Nicki wanted graph paper and/or a ruler that couldn't be bought in the local food store so we asked sheepishly if the owner of this store could help and sure enough he had both, given to Nicki for free.
I figure it wouldn't hurt asking if he does small fix it jobs and sure enough he was willing to come out to the park to take a look. As I noted earlier, I had a small problem with my awning arm and it turns out that he has been an engineer in his time and has a lathe in the back of his store. He shows up at camp after lunch bringing with him a calibrator and many tools in the back of his troopie truck. An Irish fellow and wife camped beside me also had a problem with his awning so that one was fixed first, then onto mine which needed special attention having two parts made up back at the shop. It wasn't long before he was back and with a few hits with the hammer for extra adjustment, making all the difference. That darned arm on the awning will never come off again.
The word was! that the pub was serving Sunday roast on Saturday night for $15 followed by a lemon squash. There were 6 women and 1 Irish husband in our group from the camp that enjoyed the meal. Footy was on telly when we arrived and the woman among us were commenting that they didn't like the rough and tumble of football, I piped up and said "bring back the biff I say" you should have seen the grins on the locals sitting at the bar...so funny.
Nicki and I headed off on our 8+ week trip north on Wednesday 27 May, our plans have changed a few times from our original planned trip to 'Burke and Wills Dig Tree' Innaminicka, all up in the air now, will just wing it. Also Nicki has realised she has to be back by August 1st to register her car and van but that's ok I can continue on if I want.
Our first overnight stop was at Jerrys Plains, not too far from home just yet.This camp spot was recommended to me by a friend (Solo Steve) it is a cleared mostly level area with clean toilets nearby.
Luckily there were a couple of caravans already here that were visable from the main road as I would have (as usual) sailed by without noticing the camp site. We enjoyed a very quiet night considering the highway is a short distance away. The morning bought Kangaroo's grazing near by, I spotted a large buck near the back of the motor home and got Ruby a bit excited wanting to get outside quickly to give chase, I think she would have turned tail though, if I let her out.
There were a few hills to climb on the Golden Hyw with the motor home struggling a bit but the advice I'd been given from Rod, a neighbour and x truck driver, to drive the m/h as a truck and change gears earlier before loosing the revs worked most of the time. Continuing on the Golden Hwy we turned off after Cassillis to Coolah toward Binnaway, our next camp. The road flattened out considerably and the scenery opened up with plenty of ploughing work in progress on properties.
Binnaway is a great camp spot, allowing 3 day stays, coin op electricity at 3 hours by $2 and hot shower 5 min by $2 which is plenty of time for a lovely shower. The main drag is a short walk away. Unfortunately the weather turned colder and overcast the next day so we hunkered down with power in early evenings, warm as toast with the air conditioner running. The rain was continual over the next few days so we ended up staying for 4 days till the sun came out, well! we are in no hurry.
Nicki had a problem with her gas hot water, the gas wont stay on so we will be looking for a gas fitter shortly also her door wont lock from the inside, that's a safety factor so a lock smith is what we also want. The waterproof plastic lining of her awning separated from the material underneath at the top left corner. Cutting the damaged part off before it gets worse and gluing the edges down might help stop any more damage. I can understand her frustration and disappointment when these things are breaking down so early into our trip.
On folding up my awning, one of the arms jumped out of its fitting and was difficult to get back into position. A camper inspected the awning for me and gave the arm a good push into position, I later found this hasn't fixed the problem. Something to repair when back home.
So we left Binnaway on Monday, stopped in at Coonabarabran for a quick look around and found a park for the dogs while we had a cuppa in the motor home. I had picked up a 2kg gas bottle ($29) at a Masters store at Rutherford for back up incase the fridge ran out of gas while free camping, I had it filled at the mitre 10 store for $9 and had already bought the top converter/adaptor thing for $11 before I left home so was a little expensive but, I think worth the peace of mind.
Continued on to Narrabri showground in the early afternoon and happily paid the caretaker $8 per night for our powered sites per single person, that also included a discount for being CMCA members. The cold weather has really set in and being the weaklings that we are, looked forward to the heating to ward off the cold. The motor home has used most of the first tank of fuel, down to 1/4 tank and made 500 kl so I'm very happy with that consumption.
Nicki has to wait for mail that needed to be returned directly so we stayed here for a few days, getting colder (-2deg) but not raining. Also the gas fitter comes out to the showground to repair the gas hot water, and wouldn't you know it, it worked straight away for him.
We planed on leaving Thursday but..... Nicki's hot water overflow leaked all the hot water out of the overflow pipe, she had campers coming over to help/give advice so she called the gas man again, who couldn't come out till Friday. Well! would you know it, in the afternoon she gave the gas heater another go and it worked ok, possibly was just a frozen pipe. No more early morning showers for Nicki. Cancelled the gas man and the door lock is repaired at the local lock smith and we are on our way on Friday.
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| To cold for Ruby |
Burren Juction is no longer in sight for us after being told it would be very windy and cold on the open plains. We have decided to try a more direct route over the border toward St George to get away from the cold wind but I am a bit worried that the long weekend is upon us and that it could impact on the availability of camp spots.
Heading for Moree, figuring we will stay at its showground but we find the fee is $19.50 for a site, bugger that's a sting in the tail. Don't believe all you read on Wikicamps, stating it being $9 per single person, not true. The power outlets are in a terrible state here, looks like some have melted burn marks. I don't think the caretaker took kindly to my reporting of the condition of the outlets, maybe that's why he wouldn't give us a single fee, we also didn't park in the right direction to his liking, anyway I think we were spoilt at Narribri showground, a much nicer place.
We are into mid afternoon and I'm not comfortable driving much later in the day, don't want to contribute to more road kill but we push on another 90 odd kl to a small town called Boomi, a camp ground beside Artesian pools and directly opposite the police station. We are welcomed to share a fire in a choofer, we are grateful for the lovely amber glow and the company that turn out to be near neighbours of the Newcastle/Port Stephens districts. It seems to be a small world out here....what's the chances! that 4 separate couples and us come from close proximity of each other.
Another 36kl will take us to the Barwon Hwy finally crossing the border into Queensland.
Tomorrows another day, will we take the plunge into the Artesian pools? Will we leave here before lunch? and head for Talwood Sports ground or Nindigully hotel where they make to biggest hamburger ever!
